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The Suit

The Essence of Suit Size: What to Look At After the Label

September 4, 2026 by Shogo Otomo
A plain navy suit jacket on a tailor's dress form, the shoulder line sitting straight and the collar lying close against the neck

A ready-to-wear suit sold in Japan is sized against a national standard. It is JIS L 4004:2023, Sizing systems … Read more

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The Essence of the Waistcoat: How the Cloth You Choose Decides Its Character

August 19, 2026 by Shogo Otomo
A solid deep navy wool waistcoat laid flat on its own on a wooden tailor's table, with only the bottom button left undone

“Can I buy just the waistcoat?” — search for it, and you notice the answers run in opposite … Read more

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The Essence of Suit Pattern: Why Stripes Come First

August 19, 2026 by Shogo Otomo
Three suits in the same medium grey, arranged left to right in order of progression: plain, shadow stripe, then glen check

At the end of The Essence of Suit Colour: Why Three Are Enough, I wrote this: “a pattern rides on top of … Read more

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The Essence of Suit Colour: Why Three Are Enough

August 19, 2026August 12, 2026 by Shogo Otomo
Three plain suits side by side, from left: dark navy, charcoal grey and medium grey

When a man adds a suit to his wardrobe, colour is the last thing he settles. There are criteria for cut and th … Read more

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The Essence of the Double-Breasted Suit: Why the Measurements Decide Who It Suits

September 9, 2026August 9, 2026 by Shogo Otomo
A plain navy double-breasted suit, six buttons fastened at one, with peaked lapels forming a deep V

What decides whether a double-breasted suit is right for you is neither age nor rank, but cloth and fit. An 1897 British tailoring manual, and the four measurements that make its presence.

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The Essence of Linen: How to Carry Summer with Standing

September 9, 2026August 1, 2026 by Shogo Otomo
a navy linen-and-wool jacket on a wooden hanger by an open summer window, with a white linen pocket square in a TV fold

Linen creases. What you choose is how.

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The Essence of Flannel: Why Weight Decides Your Winter Suit

September 9, 2026July 29, 2026 by Shogo Otomo
A mid-grey wool flannel jacket on a headless tailor’s mannequin, with a 3-roll-2 button stance and a white linen pocket square in a TV fold

Winter is when the distance between well-dressed men opens up. Two men in much the same colour and much the sa … Read more

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The Essence of Cloth: How the Material Decides a Suit’s Standing

September 9, 2026July 28, 2026 by Shogo Otomo
Three bolts of solid plain suiting cloth — navy, charcoal grey and brown — lying on a dark wooden tailor's table in window light

Set two suits of the same cut and the same colour side by side, and one of them can still look plainly the bet … Read more

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The Essence of the Three-Piece Suit: Why a Waistcoat Raises Your Standing

September 9, 2026July 27, 2026 by Shogo Otomo
A solid navy three-piece suit on a headless tailor's mannequin, jacket open to show the matching waistcoat over a white shirt and navy tie, in a tailoring atelier

The three-piece suit is dismissed as rude or tacky, yet worn correctly it is the surest way to raise your business dress a full degree. From the waistcoat's origin and how it governs the V-zone, to the difference from a double-breasted suit and how to choose cloth, make, and belt.

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The Essence of the Suit: Why What You Wear Decides the Game

September 9, 2026July 19, 2026 by Shogo Otomo
Close-up of dark navy suiting cloth in a soft swirl, with a gentle sheen and deep shadow

There is a difference between putting on a suit and wearing one. Whether you know that difference determines & … Read more

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