The Essence of Suit Size: What to Look At After the Label
A ready-to-wear suit sold in Japan is sized against a national standard. It is JIS L 4004:2023, Sizing systems … Read more
The Essence of Dress Shirt Size: Start With What Cannot Be Altered
Your neck is not tight. But put your arm forward and the cuff pulls away from the wrist, leaving the watch ful … Read more
The Essence of the Waistcoat: How the Cloth You Choose Decides Its Character
“Can I buy just the waistcoat?” — search for it, and you notice the answers run in opposite … Read more
The Essence of Suit Pattern: Why Stripes Come First
At the end of The Essence of Suit Colour: Why Three Are Enough, I wrote this: “a pattern rides on top of … Read more
The Essence of Suit Colour: Why Three Are Enough
When a man adds a suit to his wardrobe, colour is the last thing he settles. There are criteria for cut and th … Read more
The Essence of the Double-Breasted Suit: Why the Measurements Decide Who It Suits
What decides whether a double-breasted suit is right for you is neither age nor rank, but cloth and fit. An 1897 British tailoring manual, and the four measurements that make its presence.
The Essence of Flannel: Why Weight Decides Your Winter Suit
Winter is when the distance between well-dressed men opens up. Two men in much the same colour and much the sa … Read more
The Essence of Cloth: How the Material Decides a Suit’s Standing
Set two suits of the same cut and the same colour side by side, and one of them can still look plainly the bet … Read more
The Essence of the Three-Piece Suit: Why a Waistcoat Raises Your Standing
The three-piece suit is dismissed as rude or tacky, yet worn correctly it is the surest way to raise your business dress a full degree. From the waistcoat's origin and how it governs the V-zone, to the difference from a double-breasted suit and how to choose cloth, make, and belt.